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See the menu to the left for links to each of the pages or the menu at the top has sub-menus under "Battery Tests" for each of those pages.
8/17/14 - We are waiting for a new battery tester with faster / pre-heated MOSFETS. Once we have that we will retest all the batteries.
I expect the new tests will LOWER the hit count proportionately across all the batteries. In other words, I don't expect that suddently the LG will become a "better" battery than the VTC4.
With faster MOSFETS, the load will be "on" longer than before, so there will be steeper and deeper walls to each "valley" on the chart". More energy will be drained from the batteries per duty cycle.
Periodically being updated.. keep coming back for more test pictures and updated text.
New ! 7/27/14
Hit count... basically how many times you can hit a .2 ohm build with a given battery before the underload voltage hits 2.8 volts.
So, to rephrase: a "hit" = 4 seconds of vape time. The more hits you can get on a given battery, the longer you can vape with it before the voltage underload gets down to 2.8 volts. That said, it perhaps should not be the only consideration when choosing a battery depending on what is most important to you.
I.e. If the SINGLE MOST important thing to you is that the battery output the highest possible voltage UNDER LOAD before it drops to 2.8 volts, the VTC4 would be the hands down best choice (see it's chart below, its valley bottoms stay respectively higher than any other batterys').
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Batteries figure heavily in the world of vaping. One of the most frequent questions we get asked is "What battery should I choose for _______ ?" Filling the blank with a given device, atomizer and coil build (resistance).
Historically, we've had only 3 source of battery information:
The problem with data from the first two is that the manufacturers and the existing 3rd party tests have never tested battery perfomance in a manner consistent with how we vape. We don't hit the fire button and just vape non-stop till the battery is at the lowest recommended voltage. We hit for a few seconds (2 to 7) and the let the battery rest for anywhere from 30 seconds to 10 minutes.
Anecodotal information from our fellow vapers, while helpful, can't really be used for analysis because of a complete lack of structure or any consistency in the data presented.
So... we set out to do some serious analysis of batteries on our own with the goal of testing in a manner consistent with how we vape. We looked at how our various employees vape on mechanical mods, the various resistances, how long they hold the fire button, how long they rest between vapes, etc. We'll address battery testing for variable wattage usage patterns in the future. What we found is a range of action for mech mod / RBA users that breaks down as follows:
To provide test results that are actually usable for the purpose of choosing a given battery for a given situation, we had to select what is called a duty cycle for our test.
How we tested:
We chose .2 ohm for the load as that is low enough to be in the realm for majority of cloud chasers, the very people for whom battery safety and performance matters the most.
We chose 4 second hits because the MOSFETS in our test equipment need a little bit of time to transition from "off" (ramp down) to the selected resistance. We currently think any shorter of a period would spoil the data with too much variance from the MOSFETS. We may still re-run these tests with a longer "hit" / "on" period to further de-weight the MOSFET ramp down / ramp up data collection points. We plan on having a discussion with the test equipment vendor to get some exact figures on the MOSFET ramp times in order to know just how much this affects the data. It may be that the MOSFETS are going from open to .2 in just 10 to 100 milliseconds, if so, it won't skew the data enough to warrant a retest. We shall see what the vendor has to say...
We ran the same EXACT test for every battery. We felt this is critical in order to have data that was useful. All the batteries in the test so far were 1)New 2)Charged on an XTAR charger (of varying make or model) until the light turned green / chargning stopped. The one exception is the Sony VTC4. That battery was charged the same as the others, but the battery was a USED battery of unknown cycles. We plan on re-running the test with a brand new VTC4 soon.
How to read the charts: